A final goodbye to Michael Edwards
A very loved Champagne writer whose humble expertise will be missed dearly
In the timeframe of only a week, Champagne lost two legends. Last Sunday, Frédéric Panaiotis, Ruinart’s iconic winemaker died in a free-diving accident in Belgium and on Thursday, Michael Edwards, the renowned Champagne writer passed away peacefully in his care home in Tooting, London. The abrupt passing of the 60-year Frédéric Panaiotis, for whom a remembrance service will be held at Ruinart on June 24th at 5.30 pm, has taken the limelight away from 81-year-old Michael Edwards’ death, but there is no denying that both men stood on similar foot in their ability to transfer their love for the region in their chosen art.
Ironically, Michael was one of the people who helped to put Ruinart on the international map, when he hawked their wines for a French broker in the US in the seventies, long before Frédéric joined the Maison’s ranks.
Michael spent several years living in France, of which some in the Aube region before returning to London. An avid wine lover and an iconic wine-connoisseur, Michael wrote many years for the World of Fine Wine among other publications. His books “The Champagne Companion” and “The finest wines of Champagne”, remain relevant today, despite the many changes the region has known since their publishing. The reason for this, in my opinion, is Michael’s deep knowledge, respect and love for the region and his humble, inquisitive nature. However much he knew about Champagne, he always remained aware that there still was so much to learn. He kept the wonderful ability to be awed by every new discovery he made. Anyone lucky enough to have tasted with him, had the benefit of seeing him draw historical comparisons while pondering the uniqueness of the cuvees.
A law graduate, he had the brilliant ability to present a compelling argument for every wine he tasted in the most eloquent way. His descriptions were colorful, precise and unique, and clearly exposed his genuine love of wine and language.
Michael was a true gentleman, in every sense of the way. He always had a kind word or a helpful tip, never missing an opportunity to encourage the generation of younger writers. I was lucky enough to have received this encouragement, and he even endorsed my writing by writing the foreword to my Terroir Champagne book. He had been genuinely interested in the project, maybe because he had seen the region embark on its high yielding chemical path in the seventies – a choice he often lamented as in his opinion this had led to quality loss. He was probably one of the first Champagne writers to elaborate on improved vineyards practices to explain a cuvee’s superior quality. In every conversation we had over the years, he always encouraged me to stay true to my ecological opinions.
I first met Michael in 2010 in Bordeaux, when both of us were part of a Sauvignon Blanc jury. He was the person who initially convinced me that terroir – even if it was often not explicitly mentioned – played an important role in the champagne making process. A year later, over a lunch in London, he challenged me to go spend some time in Champagne. He was a staunch believer of learning through experience and was very convincing at extolling its benefits. Once I moved here, he became my mentor, and we exchanged often. I am deeply grateful for all pointers given by Michael over the years that helped to deepen my Champagne knowledge and writing. I cherish every conversation we shared, in London or here in Champagne, and say this final goodbye with a heavy heart.
However, I am not the only one who will miss Michael’s in-depth champagne knowledge. Fellow Champagne writer Brad Baker posted on Instagram: “What a crappy week. Thank you Michael for your mentorship and encouragement over the years. God Bless You! “ He later sent me this statement to add to this obituary; "Words cannot express how much gratitude I have towards Michael Edwards. Michael had no reason to reach out to me, care about me, mentor me, and encourage me, but he did. He took the time with someone he didn’t know and with no gain for himself. I know Michael did this with many people. His selflessness, knowledge, and desire to see the next generation succeed and surpass is what the world needs more of. Michael will be always remembered and greatly missed.”
Only last month, as part of our Suibstack Live, Brad and I had spoken about Michael’s influence on our Champagne journeys. Brad recalled Michael telling him that he was happy to see a new generation of Champagne writers rise. He also complemented him on his newsletter that included detailed domain descriptions and tasting notes, something many of us had learned from Mr Edwards himself.
Michael was also very loved by many champagne producers. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, told me yesterday upon hearing the news that “Champagne lost a great friend”. Similar feelings were echoed by Charles Philipponnat, Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy, and Michel Drappier. Benoit Tarlant described Michael as “very British, but at the same time a big lover of France and its wines”. He continued by stating what so many people in the region truly believed: “Michael was a real expert of the region. He has always been THE Champagne reference.”
This article was edited to include a statement of Champagne writer Brad Baker.